How to Plant Garlic in the Fall

Fall is sneaking up on us quickly. Quicker than expected! I mean how long did September last? 15 minutes? After looking at the calendar this weekend, I had a minor panic that I better start getting my bulbs in the ground before the weather drops too far. Garlic is one of the few crops that you can plant in the fall when the weather is starting to get frosty, getting a harvest the following summer. And it’s actually very simple to grow. I love planting it myself because it’s my favorite spice to use in my cooking.

WHY PLANT GARLIC IN THE FALL?

Garlic takes a while to grow, so planting it in the fall gives the crop a head start. Fall planting gives the bulb a chance to develop a more intricate root system, but also prevents it from sprouting leaves. Giving it this head start means that when spring rolls around, the bulb will be hardier and grow faster.

In my cold zone 3 climate, the perfect time to plant garlic cloves is mid-September to mid-October, right around the time the other plants in the garden really start to die back into dormancy. You want to plant them late enough that the cloves won’t sprout leaves but early enough they still have a change to develop roots. If you’re planting in an area that gets a hard frost (basically anywhere in the prairies), you’ll want to plant after the first fall frost but before the ground freezes.

CAN YOU PLANT GROCERY STORE GARLIC?

The short answer is yes. But the long, more complicated answer is, sort of. The garlic that the grocery store sells is sprayed with a growth inhibitor so that the cloves are sprouting during transit or while sitting on the shelf. That isn’t really what you want when you’re planting, as it can result in very small bulbs if you get any at all. It’s better to purchase the bulbs from a trusted garden source.

GARLIC VARIETIES

Softneck garlic: milder in flavour and usually what you find in the grocery store. These varieties tend to store easier and last longer; up to 9 months if stored properly. The soft neck also makes it easier to be braided together for storage.

• Picardy white: stronger flavour and shorter storage period than other soft neck varieties. Plant in autumn and harvest the following spring.

• The Germidour: slightly milder flavour than others.

• The Wight Cristo: produces an elegant bouquet and can be planted in spring or fall.

Hard neck: these varieties develop the characteristic garlic scape in the summer. The scapes are edible and should be cut from the plant so they don’t steal energy away from bulb development. These bulbs develop a single layer of cloves around the stem, while the soft neck varieties develop many bulbs nestled together.

• Red Duke: very intense garlic flavour, a little spicey.

• Elephant Garlic: known for extra large bulbs that are ideal for roasting.

• Glazed Purple Stripe: full-bodied garlic flavour that is enhanced when roasted.

PLANTING

Like other sulfuric vegetables (onions, peppers, etc) these like a warm sunny corner of the garden that has well-drained soil.

Once you have the spot picked out, carefully separate the individual cloves from the garlic head. Be careful not to damage the clove base, or they won’t grow. Do not skin the garlic cloves!

Place the clove in the dirt, point side up, pushing them at least 2 inches deep and 8 inches apart, making sure they have enough space to develop a large bulb without interference. Fertilize the bulbs to give them a boost for root development before winter. Water the garlic bed and then it’s time for mulching!

Mulch the area a couple inches deep with something organic, like leaves, hay, grass clippings, or straw to help protect them from certain pests. Mulch also helps insulate the garlic over the winter and conserve moisture. In the spring, garlic will be one of the first crops you see popping through the layer of mulch.

Can you grow garlic in a container?

Hardneck varieties are better to plant because they are hardier, and in my cold climate in the Canadian prairies, I need the hardiest plants to overwinter. Hardneck varieties need to be exposed to temperatures below 5C (41F) for 6 - 8 weeks for them to sprout the following spring. This isn't an issue in my area, but something to consider when planting wherever you live. If you don't get this kind of cold snap, choose a soft neck variety.

Use a glazed ceramic or plastic pot, something that won't get damaged from the cold or moisture. The pot should have a drainage hole and be at least 8 inches deep. Keep in mind that garlic needs to be spaced 6 - 8 inches apart, so you'll need to choose a pot large enough to fit the number of cloves you want to plant.

Plant garlic in the fall just like you would normally. But, because you're planting in a pot rather than in the ground, insulation is very important. Place the pot in an area that still gets sun during the day to prevent the soil from getting so cold that it kills the cloves. Alternatively, you can also burry the pots in the ground or pile straw, grass clippings, or other types of insulation to prevent the pots from getting too cold.

Check back in this summer when it’s time to harvest and read my Harvesting and Curing Garlic Guide.